World of Fortified Wines 1: Port and Sherry

February 4, 2024

Fortified wines, esteemed for their depth and complexity, are a testament to the art of winemaking. These wines are distinguished by the addition of distilled spirits, typically brandy, a process that not only elevates their alcohol content but also enriches their flavor profiles. Originating from a need to preserve wines during long sea voyages, fortification has evolved into a refined technique, celebrated in the creation of some of the world’s most iconic wines.

The Art of Fortification

The process of fortifying wine is both an art and a science, rooted in centuries-old traditions that continue to shape the character of many of the world’s most beloved wines. At its core, fortification involves the addition of distilled spirits, typically brandy, to wine. This technique not only enhances the wine’s alcohol content but also plays a crucial role in defining its flavor profile, stability, and aging potential.

Historical Roots

The origins of fortification can be traced back to the need to preserve wine during long sea voyages in the 16th and 17th centuries. Sailors and merchants discovered that adding brandy to wine would prevent spoilage, ensuring that the wine remained palatable upon reaching distant shores. This practical solution quickly evolved into a refined winemaking practice, giving rise to distinct wine styles celebrated for their depth and richness.

The Fortification Process

Fortification is a delicate balancing act that requires precise timing and careful selection of the spirit. The process begins during or after fermentation, depending on the desired sweetness level of the final product:

For sweeter wines, like many Ports, fortification occurs before fermentation is complete. The addition of spirits halts the fermentation process, leaving residual sugars that contribute to the wine’s sweetness.
For drier wines, such as some styles of Sherry, fortification takes place after fermentation has concluded, resulting in a wine with less residual sugar and a more pronounced dryness.

The choice of distilled spirit is also pivotal. While brandy is the most common fortifying agent, its origin, aging, and characteristics can significantly influence the wine’s flavor and aroma.

Impact on Flavor and Aging

Fortification imbues the wine with greater complexity and intensity. The higher alcohol content acts as a preservative, enabling these wines to age gracefully over many years, even centuries. As fortified wines age, they develop a spectrum of nuanced flavors, from the fresh fruit notes of a young Ruby Port to the rich, caramelized complexity of an aged Tawny Port.

The fortification process also imparts fortified wines with a robustness that makes them versatile in food pairings, from the savory complexity of aged cheeses to the sweet indulgence of chocolate desserts.

Port: Portugal’s Treasured Wine

Nestled in the terraced vineyards of the Douro Valley, the story of Port wine is as rich and complex as the beverage itself. This revered fortified wine, exclusive to Portugal, is a symphony of tradition, terroir, and craftsmanship, making it an enduring symbol of Portuguese heritage.

Origins and Tradition

Port wine’s origins date back to the 17th century when wine merchants began adding brandy to local wines to stabilize them for the voyage to England. This serendipitous discovery not only preserved the wine but also enhanced its flavor, giving birth to the Port we know today. The Douro Valley, with its dramatic landscapes and microclimates, provides the ideal conditions for cultivating the indigenous grape varieties essential to Port wine production.

The Making of Port

The process of creating Port is a meticulous one, beginning with the careful selection of grapes. Varieties such as Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, and Tinta Barroca are among the most prized for their depth and complexity. After harvest, the grapes are traditionally trodden in lagares (stone troughs) to extract the juice and initiate fermentation.

Fortification occurs within a couple of days, halting fermentation and preserving a portion of the grape’s natural sugars. This early addition of brandy is what imparts Port with its characteristic sweetness and robustness.

Styles of Port

Port wine is celebrated for its variety, offering something for every palate:

Ruby Port: The most accessible style, Ruby Port, is famed for its deep red color and vibrant fruit flavors. It’s aged in large tanks for a relatively short period to retain its freshness and fruity character.
Tawny Port: Tawny Ports are aged in wooden barrels, allowing for gradual oxidation and evaporation. This process gives them a golden-brown color and complex flavors of nuts, caramel, and dried fruit. Age-indicated Tawnys, such as 10, 20, 30, and over 40 years, represent the blender’s art in creating a harmonious and consistent profile.
Vintage Port: The pinnacle of Port wines, Vintage Port is made from the best grapes in exceptional years. It spends a short time in the barrel and then ages in the bottle, developing a remarkable depth and intensity of flavor. Vintage Ports are highly collectible and can age for decades, evolving in complexity over time.

Port and Gastronomy

Port wine’s versatility makes it a delightful companion to a wide range of dishes. Ruby Port pairs splendidly with rich, chocolate desserts, while Tawny Port’s nutty nuances complement cheese platters and crème brûlée. Vintage Port, with its robust structure and complex profile, is best savored on its own or with simple, high-quality cheeses.

Sherry: Spain’s Versatile Gem

Sherry, a distinguished fortified wine from the sun-drenched region of Andalusia in southern Spain, is as versatile as it is historic. With its roots deep in the city of Jerez de la Frontera, Sherry’s production is a dance of tradition and terroir, yielding a range of styles that can satisfy any palate, from bone-dry to luxuriously sweet.

A Tapestry of History and Culture

The story of Sherry is a mosaic of cultures, from the Phoenicians who introduced winemaking to the region over 3,000 years ago to the Moors who refined the distillation techniques essential for fortification. The name “Sherry” itself is an anglicization of “Jerez,” reflecting its international appeal and enduring legacy.

Unique Terroir and Palomino Grapes

Sherry’s unique character begins in the albariza soil of the Jerez region, a bright white chalk that retains moisture during the hot, dry summers, providing sustenance to the Palomino grapevines. It is the Palomino grape that forms the backbone of most Sherry wines, prized for its neutral flavor profile that serves as a canvas for Sherry’s complex aging process.

The Solera System: A Symphony of Aging

At the heart of Sherry production lies the solera system, an intricate method of fractional blending that ensures consistency and continuity of style across vintages. Barrels of Sherry are stacked in tiers, with the oldest wines at the bottom. As Sherry is drawn off for bottling, it is replenished with younger wine from the tier above, creating a blend of various ages where the final product contains traces of very old wine.

Diverse Styles of Sherry

Sherry’s diversity is unmatched, ranging from the light and crisp Fino and Manzanilla to the dark and intense Oloroso:

Fino and Manzanilla: These Sherries are aged under a protective layer of yeast called ‘flor,’ which prevents oxidation and imparts a delicate, almond-like flavor. Manzanilla, a variety of Fino, is exclusively produced in the coastal town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, acquiring a slightly saline character from the sea breeze.
Amontillado: Beginning its life under flor like Fino, Amontillado undergoes a second phase of aging without the yeast layer, resulting in a Sherry that balances the lightness of Fino with the richness of Oloroso.
Oloroso: Exposed to oxygen from the outset, Oloroso Sherry develops a robust, walnut-like flavor and a deep amber color. It is typically dry, with any sweetness resulting from the addition of sweet Pedro Ximénez or Moscatel wines.
Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel: Made from sun-dried grapes, these Sherries are intensely sweet, with Pedro Ximénez offering flavors of figs and molasses, and Moscatel providing a lighter, floral sweetness.

Sherry in Culinary Traditions

Sherry’s versatility extends to the table, where its various styles can accompany a wide range of dishes. Fino and Manzanilla are perfect with tapas, seafood, and salty snacks, while Amontillado and Oloroso beautifully complement richer fare, including meats and aged cheeses. Sweet Sherries like Pedro Ximénez are exquisite with desserts or as desserts in their own right.

Enjoying Port and Sherry

The true appreciation of Port and Sherry extends beyond their rich histories and intricate production processes to the rituals of tasting, serving, and pairing these fortified wines. Each style offers a unique experience, capable of elevating dining occasions, complementing a wide range of cuisines, and providing moments of introspection and celebration.

Tasting with Intent

Tasting Port and Sherry is an art that involves engaging all the senses. Begin by observing the color and clarity in a suitable glass, which can range from the vibrant ruby of a young Port to the golden amber of an aged Sherry. Swirl gently to release the aromas, noting the fruit, spice, nut, or wood notes that arise. When tasting, let the wine linger on the palate to fully appreciate its complexity, balance, and lingering finish.

Serving Suggestions

Serving Port and Sherry at the correct temperature is crucial for showcasing their best qualities:

Port: Ruby and Vintage Ports are best served slightly below room temperature, around 16-18°C (60-64°F), to highlight their rich fruitiness. Tawny Ports, with their more delicate, nutty flavors, can be enjoyed slightly cooler, around 14-16°C (57-60°F).
Sherry: Lighter Sherries like Fino and Manzanilla should be served chilled, between 7-10°C (45-50°F), to refresh and invigorate the palate. Richer styles like Oloroso and Cream Sherries are more expressive at slightly warmer temperatures, around 12-14°C (54-57°F).

Proper glassware also enhances the experience. White wine glasses or specific Sherry glasses, with their narrow opening, concentrate the aromatics for an optimal tasting experience.

Food Pairings

The versatility of Port and Sherry makes them exceptional companions to a wide array of dishes:

Port: The sweetness and body of Ruby and Vintage Ports make them ideal partners for robust cheeses, dark chocolate, and berry desserts. Tawny Port’s complexity pairs well with crème brûlée, almond-based pastries, and even savory dishes like foie gras.
Sherry: Fino and Manzanilla, with their dry, crisp profiles, are excellent with olives, nuts, seafood, and tapas. Amontillado and Oloroso, offering nutty and richer notes, complement hard cheeses, soups, and meat dishes. Sweet Sherries like Pedro Ximénez are a match made in heaven for ice cream, blue cheeses, or simply drizzled over desserts.

Cultural and Social Enjoyment

Beyond the sensory pleasure, enjoying Port and Sherry is deeply embedded in social and cultural traditions. Port is often associated with formal occasions, served at the end of a meal as a toast to good health and prosperity. Sherry, integral to the Spanish way of life, is a staple in the convivial atmosphere of tapas bars, encouraging the sharing of food and conversation.

Conclusion

In the world of wines, Port and Sherry stand out not just for their fortified strength, but for the rich tapestry of history, culture, and craftsmanship they embody. From the sun-drenched terraces of Portugal’s Douro Valley to the ancient bodegas of Spain’s Jerez, these wines tell a story of human ingenuity, a deep connection to the land, and a celebration of life’s finer moments.

Port, with its luscious depth and variety, invites connoisseurs and newcomers alike to explore its spectrum from the ruby vibrance of youth to the tawny complexity of age. Sherry, in its multifaceted styles, offers a journey through flavors that can complement any dish, mood, or occasion, making it a staple in the repertoire of the discerning drinker.

As we conclude our exploration of these remarkable wines, the invitation is not just to taste but to experience—to engage with the traditions that have shaped these wines and to find in them the same joy and connection that have been savored for centuries. Whether raising a glass of Port in celebration, enjoying a chilled Sherry on a summer evening, or pairing these wines with favorite dishes, the journey into the world of fortified wines is one of endless discovery and delight.